Escape under the cover of darkness!

We had a terrific trek on the Salkantay Trail, and we made it to Machu Picchu despite a strike against Peru Rail. More photos forthcoming, but here is a teaser.

Yesterday, things got more interesting. At mid-day, just as we were returning from Machu Picchu on the main street, a parade of protesters tried to breach the police cordon. The police fired tear gas into the crowd. Katrina, the only active journalist among us at the moment, rushed towards the tear gas! She is withholding her best pictures for publication, but here is a sample.

Our trek guide gathered us together at 7:00 last night. "I have bad news," he began. Not only was the rail strike extended, but neighboring towns were joining in sympathy. Our previous backup plan had been to hike six miles along the railroad tracks to the next town and catch a van for the six hour ride to Cusco. But with the strike spreading, the fear was that the surrounding towns would put up roadblocks, preventing any vans from getting through. So, we agreed on a plan: hike out before dawn this morning in the hope of getting out before any road barriers went up. (As Sophie pointed out, if you are on strike, wouldn't you prefer to sleep in?)

At 5:00 this morning, we hiked out of our hotel, out of town, and down the railroad tracks. We made great time and there was a van waiting for us on the other end. No whining despite the early hour and six miles with everyone carrying double packs. Nice effort by Team Wheelan today.

The band is back together!

We are all together in Cusco, Peru, headed out tomorrow very early in the morning to hike the Salkantay Trail to Machu Picchu. Back online in five days or so!

Sophie jumps into things (or off a cliff, more accurately)

Lima has a lovely coastline, with a thriving paragliding community. Individuals leap off the cliffs over the ocean tethered to something that is a cross between a kite and a parachute. One of the things that makes the city picturesque is that the paragliders will occasionally come into view between downtown buildings.

Sophie, who arrived at midnight last night, wasted no time in exploring Lima by paraglider (attached to an instructor).

See that yellowish speck at the top of the picture . . . THAT'S SOPHIE!

And a safe landing!

Sophie arrives!

This half-baked plan, having Sophie stay in Hanover for the volleyball season and then join us on the road, has worked! At midnight last night, Sophie walked out of customs and immigration in the arrivals hall at the Lima airport. And we were there waiting for her!

The band is almost back together. Actually, that is literally true, as Sophie is traveling with a guitar. (She is the band.) We will be meeting Katrina in Cusco tomorrow, at which point we will all five be together for the first time on the trip.

Many, many thanks to Jeff and Noel Yegian for holding down the fort in Hanover, looking after Sophie for two months, and sending her off safely to Peru!

Trivia for anyone who has ever seen Sophie's bedroom. TWENTY-SIX towels came out of that room when she eventually cleaned it on the eve of departure. Here is visual proof (after they came out of the wash).

Down for routine maintenance

We are hanging out in Lima, very excited to meet Sophie at the airport tomorrow night. Meanwhile, we have all had our hair cut. We sent out five kilos of laundry. (At $1 a kilo, why not?) I paid an extortionate price for three back issues of The Economist at the only bookstore in South America that seems to sell it.

Lima has grown on us since our first pass through. Since then, we've learned to appreciate the wonders of a great supermarket, and Lima has some of the very best. All that great produce at budget-accommodating prices! (Note Leah's new haircut in the photo.)

This morning felt almost like a Sunday morning at home, including our ritual of Swedish pancakes.

Guest post: Katrina leaves the family

While the rest of the family has been detained by the Argentine drug authorities, I met up with some high school friends. We met in southern Chile and made our way south to Patagonia. Here are some photos to prove it:

Patagonia: Like Colorado was dropped in New Hampshire (plus glaciers)

We spent the day in Torres del Paine National Park in Chile. This is close to the end of the world, or at least the end of the continent. As the title suggests, there are soaring snow-capped peaks jutting up from idyllic little lakes.

And glaciers!